29 May — the report from Day 12.
Still running through the Ürümqi region of China.
Bogging down in mud left by the rain, the car we washed yesterday is already
filthy again.
There are spectacular places along the route, and what was waiting for us was a national forest park.
Driving through that beautiful country, we had a sudden encounter.
A whole herd of cattle in the middle of the road — and then a whole herd of goats.
Animals standing their ground with a confidence unthinkable in Japan.
It was like being in a safari park; I laughed out loud, and it softened the mood.
Animal incidents met mid-stage (video)
We were, of course, on a timed competitive section.
We could hardly amble along at cattle pace — but that was no concern of theirs.
So we matched their pace and ambled.
And did not forget the photographs.
Tonight is another night under canvas.
Out came the tent, still muddy from the last storm, and we pitched it on damp, stony ground after the rain.
After camping this many times, putting the tent up has become smooth work.
Being inside a national park, we were surrounded by nature, and the green and the running water were healing.
But the daytime temperature is over 40 degrees, and close to 50 inside the car.
At night it turns cold all at once, and the down jacket we brought is essential.
The swing between the two takes a lot out of you.
We arrived early today after a good run, so we could enjoy the lavish meal the local staff had prepared. Extraordinary food for a campsite.
At earlier camps, between breakdowns and bad weather, there had been no room to eat slowly — so being able to eat hot food while it was hot was a particular joy.
Lunch today was corn and an apple and other things you can eat easily,
and this Chinese steamed corn is superb.
Not sweet, but the chewy texture is wonderful.
Though I was ravenous, so never mind the flavour:anything that fills you tastes good.
Over dinner, the crews we drive with come up saying “konnichiwa” and “arigatō”.
“Oh, Japanese!” Some had studied a little Japanese, and some had worked in Japan — but the conversation after that is of course in English, and we two Japanese found it hard to join in, so we went back to the tent early.
A language barrier can feel isolating, but there is an ease in it too.Hearing neither the good talk nor the bad leaves the mind unexpectedly clear, and with my quiet rally partner I watched the beautiful sunset over the campsite in silence and went to sleep early.
China has been long, and now it is the final push.
Continued in Day 13 …